The Watch That Invented the Dive Watch Category

No single wristwatch has shaped an entire category the way the Rolex Submariner has shaped dive watches. Introduced in 1953 as the ref. 6204, the Submariner was among the first wristwatches rated to 100 metres of water resistance. Over seven decades and dozens of references later, it remains the benchmark against which every dive watch is measured.

For collectors in Canada and around the world, the Submariner represents the intersection of tool-watch heritage and everyday wearability. It is the rare watch that works equally well on a dive boat off the coast of British Columbia and at a business dinner in downtown Toronto. This guide traces the Submariner's evolution through its most significant references and explains what collectors should look for in each era.

The Early Years: 1953 to 1969

Rolex's first commercially available Submariner, the ref. 6204, debuted at the Basel Watch Fair in 1954, though production examples date to late 1953. It featured a 37mm Oyster case, a rotating bezel with no crown guard, and a depth rating of 100 metres. The ref. 6205 followed quickly, and by 1955 the ref. 6536 raised the water resistance to 200 metres.

The most collectible early Submariner is the ref. 5512, produced from 1959 to 1978. It introduced crown guards, a more robust case design, and eventually received COSC chronometer certification. Gilt dials from the early years of 5512 production command enormous premiums, particularly examples with "tropical" dials that have aged to warm brown tones.

The Ref. 5513: The Collector's Favourite

The ref. 5513 ran from 1962 to 1989, making it one of the longest-produced Submariners. It used a non-COSC-certified movement (the calibre 1520, later 1530), which kept its retail price lower than the 5512 and made it more accessible. Today, the 5513 is one of the most collected vintage Submariners. Collectors prize the matte dial variants from the 1970s and 1980s, as well as rare "metres first" dial configurations. The 5513 is the definitive no-date Submariner, a watch of pure, distilled purpose.

The Modern Era Begins: Ref. 16800, 16610, and the Date Submariner

In 1979, the ref. 16800 replaced the 1680 and introduced the sapphire crystal and quickset date to the Submariner line. This was a significant modernisation. The 16800 was produced until 1988, when the ref. 16610 took over.

The ref. 16610, powered by the calibre 3135, became arguably the definitive modern Submariner. It was produced from 1988 to 2010, a 22-year run that saw relatively few changes. The "LV" variant (ref. 16610LV), introduced in 2003 to mark the Submariner's 50th anniversary, featured a green aluminium bezel insert and has become one of the most desirable modern Rolex references. Known as the "Kermit," it trades at a significant premium over standard 16610 examples.

No-Date vs. Date: The Eternal Debate

The Submariner has always been offered in both date and no-date configurations, and collectors have strong opinions about which is the "true" Submariner. Purists favour the no-date for its symmetrical dial and cleaner design. The date version adds the Cyclops magnification lens and a date window at three o'clock, which some feel disrupts the dial's balance.

From a value perspective, the date versions have historically traded at a premium, largely because they use a higher-spec movement. But the no-date Submariner has closed the gap significantly in recent years, driven by collector demand for simplicity. Both are excellent choices; the decision comes down to personal preference.

The Cerachrom Revolution: Ref. 116610 and Beyond

In 2010, Rolex introduced the ref. 116610, which brought the most significant update to the Submariner in decades. The case grew from 40mm to a still-listed 40mm but with thicker lugs and a broader visual presence. The aluminium bezel insert was replaced with Rolex's proprietary Cerachrom ceramic, which is virtually scratch-proof and fade-resistant. The Glidelock clasp allowed micro-adjustments to the bracelet without tools.

The "Hulk" (ref. 116610LV) paired a green Cerachrom bezel with a green dial for the first time, creating one of the most distinctive Submariners ever made. Discontinued in 2020, it has become an instant collectible.

The Current Generation: Ref. 126610

Released in 2020, the ref. 126610 marked the Submariner's most notable dimensional change: the case grew to 41mm. It houses the calibre 3235, which offers a 70-hour power reserve, up from the 48 hours of the previous 3135. The lugs are slimmer, the bracelet is more refined, and the overall proportions are widely praised.

The 126610LV brought back the green bezel on a black dial, a combination reminiscent of the original "Kermit" but with the modern 41mm case. It was immediately dubbed the "Starbucks" by collectors.

What to Look for When Buying a Pre-Owned Submariner

The Submariner is one of the most commonly replicated watches in the world, so authentication is critical. Key points for buyers:

• Serial and model engravings: Genuine examples have crisp, deeply engraved serials between the lugs (older models) or on the rehaut (post-2007 models).
• Bezel condition: Aluminium bezels on vintage models fade and scratch. A faded bezel is not a defect; it's often prized. Cerachrom bezels should be near-perfect.
• Service history: A Submariner serviced by Rolex with documentation commands a premium. Budget $800-1,200 for a full service if the watch hasn't been recently maintained.
• Box and papers: Complete sets with original box, papers, and hang tags trade at a meaningful premium over "watch only" examples.

For Canadian buyers, purchasing from a reputable domestic dealer provides additional peace of mind. You avoid cross-border duty considerations, and warranty service is straightforward.

Explore Our Submariner Collection

The Rolex Submariner earned its reputation through seven decades of continuous refinement without ever losing sight of its original purpose. Whether you're drawn to the vintage charm of a 5513, the modern precision of a 116610, or the current-generation 126610, the Submariner rewards deep knowledge and careful selection.

Browse our current Rolex Submariner inventory to find your reference. Every piece at Watches Established is authenticated, photographed in detail, and shipped with full documentation across Canada.