Our Authentication Process: 47 Checkpoints Before Every Sale

Watches Established
2026-04-03T20:18:09-04:00

Why 47 Checkpoints? Because Your Investment Demands It

In the pre-owned luxury watch market, authentication is everything. A single counterfeit part, an undisclosed modification, or a misrepresented service history can cost a buyer thousands of dollars and erode trust in the entire industry. At Watches Established, we refuse to let that happen.

Our 47-checkpoint authentication process was developed over years of hands-on experience, refined through thousands of watches, and designed to catch what casual inspection misses. It is not a marketing gimmick — it is the rigorous, systematic process every watch must pass before it earns a place in our collection.

The Inspection Categories

Our 47 checkpoints are organized across several critical categories, each targeting a specific area where counterfeits, modifications, or misrepresentations commonly occur.

Case and Exterior (12 Checkpoints)

We begin with the case — the watch's first line of defense and often the first area where fakes reveal themselves. Our team examines case proportions, finishing quality, engravings, and reference-number consistency. We check for signs of excessive polishing that might indicate an attempt to remove damage or alter the case profile. Lug geometry, crown guards, and case-back engravings are all compared against known-authentic reference standards.

On steel sport watches like the Rolex Submariner or AP Royal Oak, even minor deviations in case finishing — the transition between brushed and polished surfaces, for example — can signal a problem.

Dial and Hands (10 Checkpoints)

The dial is often called the face of a watch, and for good reason — it is the component most people interact with visually. Our inspectors examine dial printing quality under magnification, looking for inconsistencies in font weight, spacing, and alignment. We verify that luminous material matches the correct era and formula (Tritium for vintage, Super-LumiNova for modern), and that the colour and patina are consistent with the watch's stated age.

Hands receive equal scrutiny. The shape, length, finish, and lume application on each hand must match the specific reference and production year. Aftermarket hands — even high-quality ones — leave telltale signs that our team is trained to identify.

Movement Verification (10 Checkpoints)

Opening the case back reveals the heart of the watch: the movement. This is where our authentication process becomes intensely technical. We verify the calibre number, check the rotor and bridge engravings, examine the finishing quality, and confirm that every component is original and correct for the reference.

We also assess the movement's functional health — amplitude, beat error, and positional variation — to ensure the watch is not just authentic but running within acceptable parameters. A genuine watch with a failing movement is still a problem for the buyer.

Serial and Reference Validation (5 Checkpoints)

Every luxury watch carries identification numbers that tell its story: the reference number identifies the model, and the serial number identifies the specific piece. We verify that these numbers are genuine engravings (not re-stamped or etched over), that they are consistent with each other, and that they correspond to the correct production period for the watch's configuration.

We cross-reference serial numbers against known stolen-watch databases and, where possible, verify provenance through documentation and service records.

Bracelet and Clasp (5 Checkpoints)

Bracelets are frequently overlooked in authentication, but they are a common area where non-original parts creep in. We check bracelet reference numbers, clasp codes, end-link fitment, and overall condition. On vintage pieces, an original bracelet in good condition can represent a significant portion of the watch's value — and a replacement bracelet can dramatically reduce it.

Documentation and Provenance (5 Checkpoints)

For watches accompanied by box and papers, we verify the authenticity of the documentation itself. Counterfeit warranty cards and certificates have become increasingly sophisticated, and we examine printing quality, serial number matching, and dealer stamps to confirm legitimacy. We also note any service documentation that supports the watch's history.

Third-Party Verification Partnerships

While our in-house team handles the vast majority of authentication, there are cases where we engage third-party specialists for additional verification. Particularly rare or high-value pieces may be sent to independent watchmakers with brand-specific expertise, or submitted for material analysis when questions about dial or case composition arise.

This layered approach means you are never relying on a single person's opinion. Our authentication is systematic, documented, and — when warranted — independently verified.

What Happens When a Watch Fails?

Not every watch passes our 47 checkpoints. When we identify an issue — whether it is a replaced dial, an aftermarket movement component, or a refinished case — one of two things happens. If the issue is minor and does not affect authenticity (a service-replacement crystal, for example), we disclose it fully in our listing. If the issue compromises the watch's authenticity or integrity, we reject the piece entirely.

This rejection rate is meaningful. It means that every watch you see in our collection has earned its place through rigorous scrutiny. We would rather lose a sale than sell a watch we cannot stand behind.

Your Confidence, Our Commitment

Whether you are purchasing a Patek Philippe as a generational heirloom or a Tudor Black Bay as your daily wearer, you deserve to know exactly what you are getting. Our 47-checkpoint process is our promise to you: every watch we sell is exactly what we say it is. No exceptions, no shortcuts, no compromises.